|
WORKING BORDER COLLIES
Scroll further down on this page to learn more about the levels of training related to herding dogs. When you buy a herding puppy, you can expect your puppy to show interest in stock probably by 8 months old and ready to begin serious training on stock at 1 year old. Dogs that are destined to work cattle usually will not be ready for that task before they are 1-1.5 years old. They may need to be trained on softer stock (we like goats) to get the commands solidified before moving to cattle. No dog is too old to learn herding unless it's health is such that it is unable to endure the strenuous exercise involved. |
 Conformation BCs are bred
primarily for their physical appearance. They
are usually stockier in build. They may or may not have herding instincts.
Owners wishing to work their dogs in multiple sports including herding
should do herding first so the dog is not taught to ignore their
instincts.
COMPETING WITH A BORDER COLLIE To be competitive in any of the active sports, we highly recommend a working BC. AKC supports competitions in many areas such as agility, flyball, etc., however many of these sports also have their own organizations who may produce a significantly higher level of competition for their sport. The most common of these alternative organizations for herding include the USBCHA (United States Border Collie Handlers Association) and AHBA (American Herding Breed Association). AKC requires that all dogs competing it their events be AKC registered. AHBA allows a larger variety of breeds and mixes to compete. USBCHA allows any breed or mix that can successfully perform the tasks of the trial. Having a Border Collie (or any other herding
breed) does not guarantee that you have a working dog. There are
many breeds that originated as working herding dogs but have been so
intensely bred for conformation that they have lost their
herding instinct. Their attraction to stock is reduced to a desire
to chase, not work. It is quite possible to buy a puppy from
working dog parents and find your pup to have less instinct than you
anticipated. Even top handlers and breeders admit the difficulties of selecting
the "best" pup from any given litter. When you buy a PHF
puppy, you can be assured that we have done all we can to assure you
will have a working dog when your pup is grown up. However, it is
impossible to determine the extent of the abilities of a puppy before it
is a year old. Of course the older the puppy becomes the better
your chances of getting a glimpse of its working abilities. If you have a herding breed dog and would like
to get your feet wet in herding, you would do well to take your dog to a
herding trainer for an instinct evaluation. |
|
|
Links for More Information:
Border Collies (all about -
highly recommended) |
|
Folks are all the time calling me for puppies and asking the age-old question, "Are they good with children?" My reply is always the same..."That depends." You see, while the breed of dog is definitely a factor in how it will behave with children, it is usually not nearly as important as how the puppy is handled as it is growing up. BCs are very sensitive dogs. That means they are easily trained and make very loyal and loving pets, but it also means they may be easily frightened by things they don't understand. I have seen BCs who were wonderful family pets and I have seen BCs that were biters. The difference is always the same...the family with a good pet has made sure that the puppy was not unintentionally (or intentionally) frightened while it was growing up. The family with the dog that bites almost always has allowed children to "romp and play" with their new puppy. What's wrong with that? First, a child is considerably larger than a puppy and can easily hurt the puppy without meaning to. But pain is not always the biggest problem. Children by nature like to run and scream and play active games. Imagine if you were a 5 lb puppy and a 25-50 lb child came running at you screaming at the top of its lungs! Imagine if every time a child came near you, it held you in very uncomfortable ways and wouldn't let you escape from the discomfort. Imagine if your new home had a child who thought growling and barking at you was funny, but you knew these things to be danger signs. I don't know about you, but I'd be an emotional mess after all that (not to mention things much worse). Simple things that children do without meaning any harm at all can often turn a nice dog into a biter. Dogs are not people and don't understand or want the things people want. They are very forgiving, but they are not stupid (and BCs are among the smartest dogs alive). So, if you want your dog to be happy and pleasant with your family, protect it while it is young or buy an older dog that is already proven to be well-adjusted to children. Parents, your best bet is to keep the puppy away from the children unless you are closely watching (and even then things happen and then it's too late). Protect your puppy until it is at least 8-10 months old. Allow only gentle interactions and pleasant relationships to develop. (Of course older children sometimes understand and can be allowed more liberty.) One easy way to circumvent some of these problems is to buy an older puppy. Puppies that are 5-12 months can be divided between those that are comfortable with children and those that aren't. They are big enough to be able to play with children and not get hurt while still small enough to bond well and not hurt the children. "But I'm buying the puppy for my child!" is a natural response to this advice. If you think about it, that's not entirely true. You are buying a DOG for your child. The puppy will only be a puppy for a very short time. Your objective is better met with the focus on the type of DOG you want for your child. Sometimes it helps to look at it this way...If you wanted a horse for your child, you wouldn't buy a colt and just plop your kid up there expecting the colt to behave peaceably. You'd scare the wits out of both of them and likely get someone hurt. So, you might buy the colt because you like it and you want it to grow up around your family. You'd let your child pet it and feed it grass and talk to it and brush it and things that won't scare it. When your colt is old enough to ride and understand that the child isn't trying to hurt it, you'd let your child ride. It works the same for dogs. There are lots of things your child can do with your puppy, but there is also a need for limits regarding the types of things that are ok.
Working Borders Collies are extremely high energy dogs. Don't confuse the phrase "high energy" with "playful." High energy dogs need a great deal of activity on a regular basis. Walks in the morning and evening without running will not release the pent up energy of a working BC. These dogs need to be "worked" until they are panting heavily and tired every day. Sniffing around in the back yard will not be enough. A working BC must be given a task to perform such as herding, running (with a handler), catching frisbees, chasing balls, etc. If not worked, they can and likely will develop emotional and/or behavioral problems such as spinning in the kennel, pacing in the kennel or yard, running fences, chasing cars, chewing, barking, climbing, and a plethora of other annoying and sometimes dangerous behaviors. Working Border Collies (especially those bred for cattle) have certain instincts that, while very useful and desirable in a herding dog, can be all but impossible to manage in a pet. Herding involves moving livestock (or anything that moves) from one place to another. That function may include nipping at heels or noses, chasing around to the front and stopping the movement, and in general fretting to do what is natural if not understood. This may result in nipping the heels or legs of people (including running children), stopping anything that moves (including cars), and pacing or other obsessive, compulsive behaviors. Do not be surprised if your pet develops any or all of these unwanted behaviors and more. They are not being aggressive. In fact they are more likely simply following needs that they don't understand. |
Recall that BCs are bred for herding. They are preprogrammed to gather things that move and put them into a nice neat group and keep them there. They will therefore try to gather not only sheep, cattle, goats or ducks, but also cats, children and cars! A Border Collie is not a sit-on-your-porch type of dog. They are VERY ACTIVE and if they don't have a job (like herding stock, retrieving frisbees, or running agility courses) they will invent one. If you don't have your BC in a fenced area it will most definitely chase the neighbors' animals and children. They may chase cars by running out in front of them trying to stop them and generally get into all kinds of mischief. Underground fences don't always work with the herding BC. When that herding instinct kicks in, your BC may run right through a shock and then think the object of their focus (like a car, pedestrian, or neighborhood pet) has hurt them and should be dealt with. BCs are most happy and secure when they have a kennel in which they stay most of the time and are allowed out into a larger fenced area daily. If left out all day, they will often run all of their nutrition off and you will have a hard time keeping them fit and healthy. They need to have a strong aerobic workout everyday. This doesn't mean a walk down the street before work in the morning and bedtime at night. It also doesn't mean being turned out into the backyard (no matter how large) to sniff about on their own. They need to work FOR you. This means running after the aforementioned frisbee, livestock, etc. until they are huffing and puffing. They want to DO something to make you happy and they want to do it with all their heart and stamina. Train your puppy basic pet obedience and manners (for you and for it). You can start the minute you take your puppy home. Your PHF (Possum Hollow Farms) puppy is already able at 6-8 weeks to learn many commands such as "here," "no," "wait" (at a door for an ok to enter or leave), "stop," and not to chew on your flesh. Many PHF puppies already know "wait," "that'll do...here," and "stop." When you buy a PHF puppy we encourage you to access our recommended training schedule which is designed mostly for herding dogs but applies to pets, agility and frisbee dogs as well. Take your puppy everywhere you go. Your BC will love being with you and will usually stay with you (unlike many hunting breeds whose instinct is to run off searching for prey). However, the BC may take off after deer or other animals that run as their instinct takes over. Use your BC for herding. But, if you can't...Go hiking. Throw a frisbee (always throw low to the ground until your pup is fully developed to avoid joint injuries). Take up agility trialing. Play ball. Take it running with you. Teach it all kinds of silly tricks. Take it biking. PHF Border Collies are bred to be athletes and as adults can usually withstand as much exercise as you can toss their way. Basically do things that you like to do and involve your dog. NOTE: IF YOU PLAN TO USE YOUR DOG FOR HERDING, YOU WILL NEED TO DO SOME THINGS DIFFERENTLY. SEE THE SECTIONS BELOW ON TRAINING, ETC. You will need to provide housing for your BC. The best type of housing involves a reasonably sized kennel (5x10' or bigger) with a roof so your dog doesn't develop the habit of jumping up and down in the kennel. This type of jumping is very hard on joints and dogs can get their feet caught in the fencing and break legs.
Socialization is also an important part of keeping a Border Collie in your home. If your BC is not accustomed to strangers it can become a biter, barker or create other annoying behaviors. To socialize your BC, take it everywhere and encourage people to pet and hold it as a puppy. Take it to an obedience class when it is about 12 weeks old where other dogs and people of all sizes and types are present. With proper socialization, a BC can be very friendly and loving to all. With improper socialization it can be dangerous. |
Working BCs are exactly what the description says...they are bred to
work. A working BC is going to be thinner and sleeker, built for
speed and endurance (more like a greyhound). They
should have a strong instinctive desire to gather stock
and bring it to their master. They range in size from about 25 lbs to
60 lbs and can be short, medium or long-haired. Traditional BC colors
are black with white or red with white. Some are white with black
or red patches. Some are mostly black. Some have solid white
markings while others have freckles. They are all super
intelligent, sensitive and have a passion for pleasing their master. The
working BC will move around stock with its head and tail low indicating
a working attitude as opposed to a playful attitude (head and/or tail
up). Their interest in livestock will be intense and will increase
with exposure. You can expect your working BC to
"forget" everything you've taught them the first time you take them
to livestock. Instinct will take over and sometimes
obedience training becomes lost in the excitement for awhile. Your working
BC will be exceptionally athletic. We breed dogs solely for
herding, however they are capable of many tasks. Typical "work" for working BCs can
include herding (of course), frisbee, agility, flyball, search and
rescue, and just about anything else requiring a lot of energy, heart,
and focus. 
white factored...
not white factored...
white 
"Tricolored red and white"
"rough coat"...
"short coat"
Untrained: Dog shows instinct and desire to work.
Will move up on stock at own pace (walk or run and anything in between) with head and tail down indicating a
working attitude. Will try to bring stock to handler. Dog can
be of any age from puppy to adult but has not learned flanking or
herding commands. Dog may know a stop and recall. Dog will often try to hold stock to the fence
and has not learned to go between fence to bring stock to handler.
Commands: Recall and stop (or fewer). This level can
also include dogs that are working stock in a double-round pen
situation. Caution:
Some trainers consider this level to be a started dog.
(Approximate age = 6 months - 1 year or older) 
Round/Square Pen Started: Dog will be able to work stock in a
round pen (about 50 ft diameter) or square pen (about 20x30 ft). Stock may include sheep,
goats or cattle. Sheep/goat dogs should be able to do
small outrun, lift and fetch to handler (go get stock at other end of
pen, gather them together and bring them to the handler) then work the
stock to the handler as handler moves around the pen (called wearing).
Commands: Starting to learn flanks (away to me and come by), stop, recall and
walk up. Cow dogs will be able to work on rope in square pen
moving to both flanks, stopping, walking up and hitting head
and/or heel. Commands: Both flanks, stop, recall, head and/or
heel.
(Approximate age = 1-1.5 years or older) Please
note that definitions of Started dogs are varied and you should clarify
what each breeder means when they say they have a Started dog. 
Beginning
Novice Dog: Dog will be able to work stock in a
paddock, small pasture or arena with handler a bit farther away. Stock may include sheep, goats or
cattle (all well dog-broke). Dog should be able to do small
outrun (up to 100 yards), lift and fetch to handler then work the stock
to the handler as handler moves around the pasture. Dog will be a
bit farther along on learning flanks. Commands: Outrun,
still just starting flanks, stop, recall, walk up, and head
and/or heel (cow dogs only).
Limitations are mostly that of distance from handler and difficulty of
stock the dog can handle. (Approximate age = 1.5-3 years or older) 
Novice Trial Dog: Dog will be able to perform all
commands listed above in larger area on sheep (or cattle if
trained on cattle) and work with the handler to put the stock into a small pen or
through a chute. Dog should be able to work with other dogs and
people around and even inside the same pasture. Dog should be able
to pick stock up from a spotter (person holding stock still at the
beginning of each run). (Approximate age = 1.5-3 years or older) 
Pro-Novice Dog: Dog will be able to perform all commands
listed above with a 250-300 yard outrun on sheep (or cattle if trained
on cattle) and will be able to drive the stock away from the handler and
along a course designated by the handler at a distance. Dog will
also work with handler to put stock into a pen or through a chute. (Approximate
age = 2-4 years or older)
Open Dog: Dog will be able to perform all commands
listed so far with a 400+ yard outrun on sheep or cattle. It will
be expected to drive stock away from the handler and along a designated
course at a greater distance than Pro-Novice. It will also work
with the handler to put stock into a pen or through a chute and to
"shed" (split off one or more individuals from the
group). Most dogs will also know a "look back" where
they will leave the stock they are working and move to a different set.
(Approximate age = 3-6 years or older) General working life of a
BC is from 2 years to about 10 years when they will begin to slow down. 
rarely get hurt working sheep (at least not by the stock,
that is). We have found that dogs needed for ranch work must be
stronger than those used in most trials. This is true for sheepdogs,
goatdogs (although goats are rarely used in trials), and cowdogs.
We feel that this becomes more obvious with the difficulty of the
stock. Sheepdogs can often be used for both in a trial
situation. Sheep can be very aggressive at times on the
ranch. A ewe with a lamb at her side can be tough and some rams
can be quite dangerous. Goat
dogs
must have enough bite to be able to move stubborn and sometimes
aggressive goats. Goats can be quite large and are usually more willing to stand down a weak dog. They are also considerably
more likely to charge a dog if they think they can frighten it.
Goats usually have horns (including the nannies and kids) and will use
them as well as front hooves to fight or attack a weak dog. Cow
dogs must be the toughest of all. Cow dogs must have the desire
to fight and enjoy gripping (biting). A cow dog that won't fight
or grip is simply a sheepdog working "sheep-cows."
When faced, a good cow dog will take the challenge and bite the
face. Weaker 
cow dogs will bite the heel only. The best
cow dogs will bite head and heel. Most cows will challenge a dog
at least at first. Some cows will challenge a dog even after
having learned that the dog will bite, just to make sure. A few
cows will go out of their way to kill a dog. It is possible to
win a cow dog trial with a weaker cow dog (I've seen it done), but
when your cow dog is put into a difficult position on the ranch it
better have the guts and power to get control of the
situation. 
A cow dog must be
willing to bite the cow if it must. Sometimes cow dogs need to
be able to fight. So, a dog that is going to be trained on
cattle, must have a desire to bite the stock. This is called
gripping. Dogs that grip sheep in competitions are disqualified
immediately. Dogs working in ranch and farm situations at some
time or other usually will find a need to grip. When evaluating a
dog for working cattle, we usually look for a dog that likes to bite,
has a high tolerance for pain, and will leave sheep or any other stock
in preference for working cattle. We advise against anyone
training a dog to work cattle if it does not show this
preference. This often, but not always, is related to the
genetics of the dog. A dog that likes to run in and bark, chases
stock (including horses or cattle), and works with another trained dog
working cattle does not necessarily have what it takes to be a cow
dog. One way to evaluate an adult dog's potential for working
cattle is t
dog,
your goats will usually move along nice and easy and seldom will
challenge. Exceptions to this will include an occasional billy
or nanny with an attitude and nannies who have kids. A dog who
is willing to bite, but is still controlled will be able to handle any
of these situations. Goat dogs can be trained more easily than
sheep or cow dogs if they have the appropriate breeding and
temperament. Goat dogs will need to be able to work up close
without biting, fight when needed (but only for short bouts and rarely
to the point of true danger), and work quietly when needed. Dogs
that are trained on sheep and then asked to work goats usually require
a period of adjustment. Do all the same things with your goat
dog that you would do with a cow dog. If looking for an adult
working dog, try to find one that is already working goats. If
this is unavailable, look for a not-so-aggressive cow dog. Do
not buy a sheep dog unless you see it stand down a fighting ewe
or ram. Because gripping is not allowed in sheepdog trials, many
sheep dogs have been trained not to grip and sometimes this can be
At
PHF we like our sheep dogs to be very quiet, small to medium in size, and have a natural
balance and pace. This way they will automatically work without
disturbing the sheep and will be easier to train. We look for
intensity and high working desire. There is a large
selection of training videos for sheep dogs available from